A skateboarder busts a move in the shadow of the “Republic Tree Monument,” erected to commemorate the 80th anniversary of Turkey becoming a republic. The monument depicts Atatürk and the Turkish cavalry fighting the War of Independence. Among Turkey’s greatest attractions to foreign investors today is its young and growing population.

In Izmir, Turkey, walking the Kordon at sunset, you see all the world has gathered at the tables. It’s a golden, breezy mix of cay (tea) in tulip-shaped glasses, Efes pilsner, cigarettes, sunglasses, raki and backgammon. Oh and there’s conversation … constant conversation … in a tongue that conveys equal parts Mediterranean fire and Slavic strength, fortified with the open emotions of both. What would you ever wish to hide on this or any other day?

Be sure to time your walk along the Kordon in Izmir to coincide with sunset. Somewhere out there is Greece, a two-hour boat ride away.

 

As the sun drops, the waiters bring out the shawls, draping them across the shoulders of men and women alike. Though it’s a standard practice throughout Turkey, there is something about this generous and kind gesture that touches and warms you even before the fabric does.

Not a bad spot for a chat.

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